Monday, November 28, 2011
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
|Magic Ed's Project Pillar|
He was nice enough to offer me the FA (probably .10d/.11a) of a brilliant pitch high up on a narrow pillar of limestone 6-700 ft above the canyon floor. He's tentatively calling it the Grand Pillar, but there's a still a pitch to be done to the top. Check it out.
Saturday, November 5, 2011
|Jaime Bohle on the exposed 5th pitch of Snot Girlz, 5.10d, 7 pitches|
Hanging out at the base of a limestone crag at Potrero Chico, I look down into the gravel wash, what qualifies as a road in this part of Mexico, and see two pickups with soldiers in the back driving upstream. A few minutes later, having turned around, I look again and see them driving downstream. And then they are gone – no flying bullets, no blood-filled gutters, no square groupers. I look up at the rock, see two other people on the wall, and decide with the crowds and all its time to find some peace and quiet. In 5 minutes, we’re in the wash – in 10 we’re in the Virgin Canyon with dozens of classic routes all to ourselves. Over the course of two weeks, that’s the only time we see el ejercito (the army) – but we wake up each morning to solitude, sunny weather, and a candy store filled with the sweets of climbers’ dreams.
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Less than 48 hours after returning from my second trip to El Potrero Chico, all I can say is wow! The first trip was so memorable, I tried to keep my expectations in check, but EPC delivered again. Here's a teaser - there's more to come.
|Jaime Bohle on Death of a Tradman, Mota Wall, El Potrero Chico|