Sunday, November 8, 2009

Valhallas Reprise

I haven't updated this in awhile, so I figured I'd post some photos from an aborted trip to the Valhallas in eastern BC earlier this fall. Kristin and I had this trip on the radar screen for awhile, but when the time came the funk I'd been harboring in my lungs cut the legs out from under us. Bummer, but that's the way it goes. We still spent a couple of glorious days up at Mt. Gimli and managed to get up the ridge of Niselheim. Good times and inspiration for a return trip.

From Valhallas


From Valhallas


From Valhallas


From Valhallas


From Valhallas


From Valhallas


From Valhallas


From Valhallas


From Valhallas

Blowin in the Wind in Joshua Tree

Mother Nature plays some cruel tricks in the desert. The fall rains held off a couple of extra weeks in the Pacific Northwest, but by the end of October they had finally rolled in, and Kristin and I were looking forward to some warm crack climbing during our upcoming trip to Joshua Tree. Each day we would pull up the weather report and each day we would see endless days of sunshine and highs in the 70s.

We flew into San Diego on Sunday evening and spent the night with our friends Keith and Beth, who provided us with camping gear for the rental car and a morning tour of Ocean Beach. Monday morning, we drove out to Jtree in the Ford Focus, pulling in to find the glorious weather we had dreamed of. We grabbed a site at Hidden Valley and pulled out the gear for a quick romp up the Eye.

From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


The next morning, we woke up to wind - lots of wind. Not to be deterred, we headed out to Lost Horse and Bird on a Wire. Great climb! Cold as hell. We forced our way up the 300 ft of climbing in sustained 20-30 mph winds saved only by the fleeting warmth of the desert sun.

From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


That afternoon, the clouds moved in, and it blew like hell for the next three days. Gusts to 40, periodic clouds, highs in the mid-50s - brrrrr. We managed to climb a few pitches each day.

Wonderland of Rocks (Mental Physics and Room to Shroom)

From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


Real Hidden Valley (Loose Lady and Illusion Dweller)

From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


And despite the wind, we still enjoyed the scenery of JTree.

From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


And when we left? Well, the hands tell the story. We still managed to get in some pitches.

From Joshua Tree


From Joshua Tree


Yeah, we wish the weather had cooperated a bit more, but you take what you get in the desert. JTree's a great place for a Fall escape, and it was kind of like alpine climbing without the mountains, commitment, approaches, descents and exposure.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Vesper Peak - North Face

Vesper Peak - North Face
July 19, 2009

Drew Hansen and I climbed the North Face of Vesper Peak over the weekend. On Thursday morning, I flew up to Fairanks, AK to meet with clients. By Friday afternoon, I was back on the plane to PTown, touching down at about 11 pm after getting bumped from my original shuttle from Seattle. By 8 am, I was up and packing for a weekend of climbing in the North Cascades. We got in a few pitches at Index before crashing at the trailhead for an early start on Sunday.

Drew and I were looking for an alpine day trip with an interesting objective, and Vesper fit the bill perfectly. Situated off the Mountain Loop Highway in the North Cascades, the peak offers spectacular views of the range, a short glacier crossing, an incredible north facing slab and excellent positions. Here's an overview of the route:

From Vesper Peak - July 09


We gained the rock from the snow finger in the middle of the glacier. We found pretty much the only spot we could see where the moat looked reasonably safe to cross. Even there, a fall would have been real ugly, and we focused hard as we stepped across the gaping slot and onto the rock with our aluminum crampons.

From there, we headed up low angle slabs for about half a pitch looking for a way to cut into the next gully to the left. The gully straight up above us looked unpleasant, but we didn't really see many other options. We ended up climbing a mid-fifth class, right facing corner that splits the two gullies. It basically heads straight up through the shadows from the top of the snow finger in the photo above. I managed to lead up on fairly sound rock that was coated in lichen and moss. Luckily it was dry, so we got pretty bomber hand jams and cam placements in moss covered cracks - a good alternative to tape!

From the top of that pitch, we pretty much simul-climbed the rest of the route with one or two stops for navigation and re-racking. The final corner was definitely the highlight, with fun moves on bomber rock. Stepping out of the corner, I topped out to a field of alpine wildflowers just under the summit block with not a soul in sight. Ahhhhhh.

Here are some more pics:

Sperry in morning light.

From Vesper Peak - July 09


From Vesper Peak - July 09



Looking up at the switchbacks towards Headlee Pass

From Vesper Peak - July 09


Drew on the way up the pass

From Vesper Peak - July 09


The cool tarn in the basin under the SE side of Vesper Peak.

From Vesper Peak - July 09


Vesper Lake under the N side of the peak.

From Vesper Peak - July 09


Drew crossing the glacier in the morning light.

From Vesper Peak - July 09


Looking back down towards the glacier.

From Vesper Peak - July 09


From Vesper Peak - July 09


Looking up the final corner. We simul climbed through this section, which is maybe 300-400 feet long.

From Vesper Peak - July 09


Looking back down the corner - this is maybe mid-fifth class but really very easy.

From Vesper Peak - July 09


Summit flowers

From Vesper Peak - July 09


From Vesper Peak - July 09


Sperry Peak

From Vesper Peak - July 09


Gratuitous summit shot

From Vesper Peak - July 09


On the way back out

From Vesper Peak - July 09


From Vesper Peak - July 09


All in all, the climb took us 9 hours car-to-car, but it could be done much quicker than that. We took a wrong turn in the basin by the tarn and ended up spending an extra 30-45 minutes finding the notch. We ate a leisurely lunch on the summit and generally took it easy enjoying the fantastic weather and peaceful setting. The descent to the glacier looks kind of intimidating, but it was fairly straight forward on 3rd class ledges that dumped you out onto lower angle snow. The moat was definitely the crux followed by tricky routefinding to get out of the gullies. From there, its a romp up low angle slabs and corners to the summit followed by an easy walk off. Great day in the hills!

Anders Osborne and Johnny Sansone

Anders Osborne, Johnny Sansone and Clarence Bucaro
Mississippi Studios
Portland, OR
July 20, 2009

Kristin and I caught a great show last night at Mississippi Studios. Anders and Johnny Sansone brought a little New Orleans spice to Stump Town on a hot Monday night. In the recently refurbished space on Mississippi Ave, no more than 100 people enjoyed an intimate setting as all three performers traded songs.

This was the first time I had been inside Mississippi Studios since the redesign, and they did a great job opening up the space while maintaining its character as a small and intimate setting. A small balcony overlooks a much larger seating area that accommodates more people. The stage is only a couple of feet off the floor, and the crowd is seated right up to the edge for an easy flow of energy from artist to audience. The sound quality was a little off, mostly in the first set, but I think that was mostly the sound guy working out the kinks than the venue itself. This would be a great place to book a rocking show! Maybe some late night post-Portland Blues Fest action next year?

My little Pentax Optio W60 was working overtime last night trying to deal with the interior light, but I got a couple of decent shots. Probably should have brought the SLR kit as it was a pretty informal setting.

Anders, Johnny and Clarence (R to L)

From Anders Osborne - July 20, 2009 - Mississippi Studios



From Anders Osborne - July 20, 2009 - Mississippi Studios


From Anders Osborne - July 20, 2009 - Mississippi Studios


From Anders Osborne - July 20, 2009 - Mississippi Studios


From Anders Osborne - July 20, 2009 - Mississippi Studios

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Angel's Anniversary - July 4th Trip to Squamish

Five years ago, we gathered friends and family at Timberline Lodge for a wedding celebration on the slopes of Mt. Hood. Our favorite people from all over the country traveled to Oregon to wish us well, and we danced the night away to Papa Grows Funk while outside the mountain stood watch as she has for thousands of years. For the next three months, we rode our way across the West in a 1978 VW van named Blue, climbing pitch after pitch from the North Cascades to Banff and Rocky Mountain National Park with many more stops in between.



Soaking up the landscape of North America, we celebrated by searching for that sublime satisfaction of the perfect climb with the perfect partner.

Five year later, we sat at the Canadian Border in a 90 minute line, 2 hours after running out of gas (in the Prius) and five hours after leaving my sister's house in Seattle. What better way to celebrate #5 then road trippin' to Squamish for a weekend of climbing? Right at that moment, I thought anything would be better than sitting in that God damned line with all the other tourists. We got stymied by the masses and it was pissing me off. What should have been a five year mini-reprise of the climbing honeymoon was turning into a five-hour ordeal of traffic, borders and delays.

We had laid a plan to travel to Squish on Friday and climb a few pitches at the Smoke Bluffs. Saturday morning, we would wake up and climb Angel's Crest, IV 5.10b, 13 pitches up the North side of the Chief - Kristin's biggest climb to date.

Sunday and Monday we would kick back, enjoy the buzz of a successful route and climb some more cracks till we had to return back to Portland.

The plan went awry. We finally pulled into Squamish late on Friday afternoon and got in a couple of pitches in the Bluffs up by Penny Lane. We met a couple of people and got to talking about weekend plans, and they had already talked to three other parties headed to Angel's Crest the next day. They also told us how they screwed up the approach to AC, ending up in North North Gully only to find the base of the climb three and a half hours after leaving the car. Hmm ... crowds and getting lost. Sounds great.

Saturday morning we woke up at 5 am and were headed up the trail by 6. We dutifully trudged up the forest, found the entrance to the gully and then started looking for the climb. We roped up and scrambled up some scruffy 4th/5th class towards what we thought was the buttress. After a couple of pitches of this BS, we finally accepted the fact that we had made the exact same mistake as our friends from the day before and ended up on the approach to North North Arete. Arrrgghhh! Just as we turned around, another party showed up looking for the same climb. At least we weren't the only ones - I guess misery loves company. We pointed them in the right direction (downhill) as we rapped off and packed it up. So much for Saturday.

Sunday we finally got our act together and once again found ourselves walking through the old-growth forest at 6 am. This time, we knew where we were going and found the start of the climb after about 20 minutes of walking. And off we went - the Angel's Anniversary.

P1 - Climb the cedar tree. It bypasses two scruffy pitches and deposits you right at the start of the Angel Crack. Its also faster and a good way to pass parties low on the route. Plus the fifth is the "wood" anniversary!

P2 - Sweet! Early morning air, a clean crack and nice views. The .10a crux is at the end, with excellent rests along the traversing pitch. Save a little gas in the tank.

P3 - The supposed crux. Step down to the left, then a couple hand jams into straightforward face climbing past 2 bolts. I thought this was pretty easy for .10b.

P4 - Easy climbing up broken terrain.

P5 and 6 - Another solid .10a pitch Enticing cracks head straight up but climb right on face holds to a right facing corner with a finger crack. Easy for .10a. Instead of belaying, head straight up the face until you get to the forest. About a 185 feet.

From Squamish July '09


P7 - Move the belay a short ways up through the forest to the ramp system that heads straight up the buttress. The entrance to the second ramp is a bit tricky on thin gear but not at all strenuous. The .10a corner above is super fun!

From Squamish July '09


Move up through the forest again and pass the cool totem.

From Squamish July '09


P8 - Head to the right of the offwidth up a finger crack and then right again to a groove. Kind of short and not that great.

Move up through the forest again to the base of the Acrophobe Traverse. From here you can see the rest of the route, and it looks awesome!

From Squamish July '09


From Squamish July '09



P9 - So fun! Climb up easy cracks and slabs to the top of the lower tower and then walk across on a narrow fin of solid granite. From the end of the traverse, climb up more low angle cracks straight to the summit of the tower and belay from directly on top off of two bolts. Quite a perch!

From Squamish July '09


From Squamish July '09


From Squamish July '09


From Squamish July '09


From there, rap the bsckside of the tower and scramble a short ways up to a fixed line. Climb down the fixed line and scramble behind the next tower to the start of the next pitch at the notch.

P10 - Start up fairly easy terrain on cracks to a ledge. Straightforward pitch.

P11 - Climb up a wide crack to the whaleback arete. Traverse the whale back to the next ledge and belay. Fun position and good climbing.

P12 - This is the real crux of the route. From a tree belay on a narrow ledge, step past a manky old pin to the right until you can see two crack system close together. Head up the right hand crack and over a small roof - probably the crux moves - then into a narrow slot/chimney. Plug in some gear in the back and then up again over a small roof to a good stance under the final headwall crack. Climb the awesome hand crack with amazing exposure and stellar rock to the top and a huge ledge. Woohoo!! I thought this was pretty solid for .10a. Save some juice for this pitch.

From Squamish July '09


From Squamish July '09


From Squamish July '09


From Squamish July '09


P13 - Step right and climb the chimney. Left side in with straightforward chimney moves leads quickly to lower angle cracks and then you're on top. The second should definitely trail the pack off the belay loop for the chimney moves - really only a couple of moves.

From Squamish July '09


From the top, we had a few minutes to relax and reflect on the weekend. We finally found that elusive state of mind - strung out from adrenaline and physically tired but proud of the work with a safe and easy descent back to the car. Ahhhh.

Perfect climb? Mmmmm ... I would say excellent but far from perect.

Perfect partner? Definitely!

In the end, the 5th Anniversary climb parodied lots of other experience we've had on the rock over the last five years. Plans get screwed up. We get lost. Maybe we don't get in as many pitches as we wanted. But with a little patience, we eventually find ourselves in that moment of focus and relaxation with air beneath us and the Angels above.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Climbing at Smith Rock

Kristin and I headed down to Smith Rock last weekend, and it was hot hot hot! We spent Saturday on the back side and found some awesome climbing in the shade as well as tremendous views of Monkey Face, the Sisters and the surrounding landscape.

From Smith Rock May '09

The Sisters over the Crooked River



From Smith Rock May '09

Chris on top of Spiderman



From Smith Rock May '09

Kristin on Spiderman



From Smith Rock May '09

Chris on Spiderman



From Smith Rock May '09

Monkey Face



From Smith Rock May '09

Aiding into the Mouth



From Smith Rock May '09

Kristin at the Base of Screaming Yellow Zonkers



From Smith Rock May '09

Mesa Verde Wall



From Smith Rock May '09

More Mesa Verde Wall showing the amazing Trezlar in the corner. I finally climbed this for the first time this weekend. Great route!



From Smith Rock May '09

Mt. Jefferson over some mansions.



From Smith Rock May '09

River otter staying cool in the Crooked River



From Smith Rock May '09

Lichen It!



Sunday it was even hotter and we had a tough time getting motivated to climb, but we did goof around a bit.

From Smith Rock May '09

Kristin flexing on the Phoenix Wall



From Smith Rock May '09

The brilliant Zebra Zion looking mighty hot.



From Smith Rock May '09

The front side looking good.



No matter how many times I got back to Smith, I still love this place! We're lucky to live so close to this cragging gem.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Mt. Hood - Illumination Saddle to Paradise

This report comes in a bit late, but Ralph and I had a great time on the classic Mt. Hood Illumination Saddle to Paradise tour a couple of weekends ago.

We got a bit of a late start because we had a car shuttle arranged with some friends, but they had to bail at the last minute. Improvising on the fly, we decided to park at the Paradise trailhead and hitch up to Timberline. After about 10 minutes, we were picked up by a really nice gentleman by the name of Peter who ended knowing some common lawyers friends of ours.

The skin up to I-Saddle was a bit monotonous as usual, but we had beautiful weather and cool tunes on the IPod.

From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


When we got to ISaddle, there were A LOT of people around engaged in all sorts of activities. But it made for a couple of scenic shots. Yocum's looked particularly good.

From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From there, we caught some sweet corn turns all the way down into the Little Zig Zag drainage. Oh yeah.

From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From Illumination Saddle to Paradise - April 09


From there, it was pretty much a suffer fest to get back to the car. Our friends that bailed had the GPS, which we were going to use to find the trail. We decided to go for it anyway - not the brightest move - and we paid the price with a couple of hours of bushwhacking through the Little Zig Zag drainage. After "zig zaggin" back and forth looking for the trail, we bottomed out in the canyon and knew we were pretty much screwed. We turned around and climbed back up the side hill towards the ridgeline and eventually found the trail headed down the other side. Phew! Almost thought we were gonna spend the night in the forest up there, but we ended up back at the car around 6-ish.

Great day! Corn rules.