SW Face of Stein's Pillar --> Free Lunch, Picnic Lunch Wall

The SW Face of Stein's Pillar

This past weekend finally marked the arrival of Indian summer in the Pacific Northwest, with moderate temps, clear skies and calm winds.  After several weeks of rain and recent mountain snows, a lot people were focused on the upcoming ski season, waxing their boards and scanning the web for the long-term forecast.  But I was still holding out hope of squeezing in some more rock climbing.

The seasonal window for climbing longer routes is closing quickly, and I had my eyes on the SW Face of Stein’s Pillar near the Mill Creek Wilderness in the Ochoco National Forest.  I pinged Guy to see if he was available and he responded with a “hell yes” and “oh by the way we should climb Picnic Lunch Wall on Sunday.” 

Winter Sun at Smith Rock

I spent last week in the chilly confines of Barrow, Alaska, and when I left on Thursday evening the temps had dipped down to -35 degrees F.  Brrr.  When I deplaned in Anchorage, it was a balmy 10 degrees F.  Several hours later on Friday morning, I walked out into the early morning gray of Portland to find tropical temperatures hovering around 50 degrees F.  The 85 degree swing wreaked havoc on my system, and I promptly fell asleep.

The Junuary Inversion

Marcel Gesmundo eyeing thousands of feet of corn on Mt. St. Helens

With sunny weather in Central Oregon and a persistent inversion in the mountains, I couldn't decide whether to climb or ski this past weekend.  Luckily, with a three day break, I could do both!  The Pacific Northwest delivered again with two days of sunny climbing at Smith Rock and a stellar day of skiing corn on Mt. St. Helens.

Anniversary on the Marsupial Traverse

Kristin celebrating our 8th anniversary on Brogan Spine

This year, July 4th - our 8th Anniversary - fell on a Wednesday, during a stiff period of work for the both of us, and so we hemmed and hawed a bit about what to do.  Although we have been climbing quite a bit this spring and early summer, we've been confined to the crags and haven't really spent much time off the ground.  After some back and forth, we finally decided on the Marsupial Traverse at Smith Rock, rumored to be the longest route in the park and a mini-adventure on typically variable Smith tuff.  After a reasonable 7 am departure from Portland, we managed to bag the route, enjoy a fancy anniversary dinner at Abby's pizza in Madras, and then arrive back in Portland by 10 pm.  A fine day!

June Recap

June was wet here in Portland - really wet - the second wettest in recorded history.  But there was still climbing to be had, mostly on the east side.  No matter how damp and dreary it gets in the Pacific Northwest, you can always find dry rock and good people who want to climb.  Here are a few quick shots from the last month . . .

TROUT CREEK

Trout Creek opened after BLM confirmed the golden eagles had abandoned the nest on the Main Wall.  The salmon fly hatch was insane! And the climbing was pretty good as well.

 

Kristin on the approach with Mt. Jefferson and the Deschutes River in the background

Guy giving Jaime an attentive belay on Fun Soup, 5.10

More Fun Soup, 5.10

SMITH ROCK - THE ZOO

I had heard rumors of cool, steep and juggy routes at a relatively new crag called the Zoo down by Smith Rock.  We found the goods and had a great day climbing with some nice folks. 

Zac Fleischer sending A Scream Comes Across the Sky, 5.11a.  Photo by Kevin Won.

Kevin Won cleaning a new project

The Tasmanian Devil

THE MENAGERIE

Sneaking away mid-week, I made a quick trip to the Menagerie for a site visit to discuss the Forest Service closure for nesting peregrine falcons.  We managed to get in a great pitch at the end of the day (outside the closure area).  

Panorama Point, The Rabbit Ears, Turkey Monster and the Spire (clockwise from top left)

Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund enjoying the summer solstice on Winter Sunlight, 5.9, The Hen

Guidebook author Greg Orton on Winter Sunshine, 5.9, The Hen

Scratchin' the Itch

Kim Crihfield on Taiwan On, 5.10c, Fourth Horseman, Smith Rock

This past weekend hopefully marked the end of the freakishly warm and dry winter conditions in Oregon and the Pacific Northwest.  Pretty much everyone I knew was in the depths of powder withdrawal - a horrible affliction that causes irritability, anxiety and constant weather channel web surfing.  There are few known cures, most of which involve long car rides, airfare, or very large doses of self-prescribed medication.  Even with proper treatment, a patient's prognosis is uncertain until the very end.

Late Fall Sun at Smith Rock

Smith Rock - December 11, 2011

Here in the Pacific Northwest, we've been locked into a stable high pressure system for the last two weeks. The Thanksgiving weekend usually signals a switch to skis, but in the absence of mountain snow, recent conditions at Smith Rock have been excellent. Mostly clear skies, calm winds, and cool temps add up to great sport climbing conditions.

The last two weekends saw a small but stoked group of mostly local climbers enjoying the sun during a shrinking window of warm daylight hours. This shot is from a Saturday trip with Nate, fresh off more than a month of climbing in the desert, only to find more sunny stone back in Oregon. We had a great day of clipping bolts, but I'm still praying for a powder day!

The Return to Smith Rock!

The Smith Rock Group

When we first learned to climb, Kristin and I would make the trip to Smith Rock just about every weekend, looking for little slices of adventure in different corners of the park.  We'd pack up the car on Friday night, drive up and over Mount Hood and then down into the High Desert, pulling into secret (or not so secret) camp spots in the dark.  Straight through the hottest months of the summer we'd spend every weekend in the desert heat, rotating around the towering cliffs opposite the sun in search of shade and friction.

Climbing at Smith Rock

Kristin and I headed down to Smith Rock last weekend, and it was hot hot hot! We spent Saturday on the back side and found some awesome climbing in the shade as well as tremendous views of Monkey Face, the Sisters and the surrounding landscape.

From Smith Rock May '09

The Sisters over the Crooked River

From Smith Rock May '09

Chris on top of Spiderman

From Smith Rock May '09

Kristin on Spiderman

From Smith Rock May '09

Chris on Spiderman

From Smith Rock May '09

Monkey Face

From Smith Rock May '09

Aiding into the Mouth

From Smith Rock May '09

Kristin at the Base of Screaming Yellow Zonkers

From Smith Rock May '09

Mesa Verde Wall

From Smith Rock May '09

More Mesa Verde Wall showing the amazing Trezlar in the corner. I finally climbed this for the first time this weekend. Great route!

From Smith Rock May '09

Mt. Jefferson over some mansions.

From Smith Rock May '09

River otter staying cool in the Crooked River

From Smith Rock May '09

Lichen It!



Sunday it was even hotter and we had a tough time getting motivated to climb, but we did goof around a bit.

From Smith Rock May '09

Kristin flexing on the Phoenix Wall

From Smith Rock May '09

The brilliant Zebra Zion looking mighty hot.

From Smith Rock May '09

The front side looking good.



No matter how many times I got back to Smith, I still love this place! We're lucky to live so close to this cragging gem.