El Potero Chico TR

Its been a few weeks since Kristin and I returned from El Potrero Chico, and hardly an hour has gone by that I haven't thought back on this amazing trip. Two-thousand foot walls of limestone, 700 routes, 15-minute approaches, $8 bottles of tequila, $5 camping, and $1 36-ounce beers. The numbers all add up!

From El Potrero Chico

From El Potrero Chico

Day 1 - Dope Ninja to Jungle Mountaineering

From El Potrero Chico

Our first day on the rock, we wanted a warm-up on a multi-pitch route to check out the grades and bolting style. We had heard rumors of soft grades and closely spaced bolts, but we wanted to check it out for ourselves to gauge what our objectives should be later in the trip.

We got out early and started up Dope Ninja, a 6-pitch 5.10b that ascends the prominent ridge line in the photo above. The cruxes were short and well-bolted. The second pitch is probably the best of the lot, climbing through two short crack systems over a 140' on good rock. The third pitch includes a brief 5.10 section right off the belay, and then the 4th pitch traverses left on exposed ledges.

From El Potrero Chico

The 5th and 6th pitches climb up to the summit pinnacle, a narrow tower that overlooks the valley and surrounding walls. You can rap the route, but the better option to head down either Pancho Villa or Snot Girlz on the Mota Wall, because those rappels are much more straightforward.

Overall I'd say the route is definitely worth doing, and has a bit of an adventure feel (despite the trail of bolts). The ridge top gives you a nice position, but by the end of our stay we didn't look back on that climb as one the more memorable. Still, it was a cool place to check out.

From El Potrero Chico

We got the to the bottom, ate lunch and decided to go climb another route. We racked up for Jungle Mountaineering, which lies just across the valley and ascends the Jungle Wall for 4 pitches at 5.10b.

From El Potrero Chico

The picture above is an overview of the famed Jungle Wall, where many of Potrero's long sport climbs are located. The pavilion at the base of the wall serves as a useful landmark. Space Boys, 11 pitches, 5.10d, starts just behind the tin roof. Jungle Mountaineering is two scrubbed lines to the left. After three pitches, the fourth pitch angles slightly back to the right.

The climbing on this wall is truly unique, as you start off the ground onto a 5.9 slab that goes on for probably 400 feet. You can easily link pitches, skip bolts and get into a groove as the pavilion slowly fades away below. Here's a shot of Kristin somewhere on the 2nd or 3rd pitch.

From El Potrero Chico

The fourth pitch of JM gets a little steeper and involves a delicate traverse to the right at the crux - thin and balancy with some air below your feet.

The view from the top was outstanding!



After JM, we called it a day and retired to drink beer with new friends - more on that later. But for Day 1, we had a great time and got warmed up for more excellent climbing to come.

Day 2 - Space Boys

Before the trip, I had heard a lot of reports about Space Boys (5.10d, 11 pitches) and viewed the topo from NAClassics.com. The route supposedly consisted of about 1000 ft of high quality sport climbing up a steep wall with a brilliant crux pitch up sporting awesome exposure. In the overview photo above, it starts right behind the pavilion and ascends straight up to the flat spot on the ridge. So there we were, in Mexico, prepping for one of the classic routes we had come so far to climb. Stoke!

We woke up pretty early and were on the rock by about 8:15 or so. People tend to get moving pretty late in Mexico, even the out-of-towners, so we had the whole canyon to ourselves for about the first two hours. We started out on the now familiar slabs of the lower wall. I linked pitches 1-2 and 3-4, and after an hour or so we were already 3-400 ft off the ground.

At least during March, the Jungle Wall gets sun pretty early in the day and doesn't go into the shade until later in the afternoon. We headed out early in the hopes of climbing most of the route before it go too hot. Here's a shot of Kristin emerging from the shadows into the warm sun on Pitch 4 (or maybe 5?).

From El Potrero Chico

After climbing 5 pitches of the scrubbed slabs, the route steepens with the 6th pitch providing the crux. I won't give it away, because you'll enjoy it more without the beta, but what a pitch! The character of the route changes dramatically with steep climbing and lots of exposure. Woohoo! Definitely the first really memorable highlight of the trip. Here's a shot looking back at the crux pitch.

From El Potrero Chico

After the crux pitch, the next two pitches continue up steep ground with serious exposure on pretty good rock. The 7th pitch involves a short crux off the belay into a sustained corner (5.10-ish) and then the 8th pitch climb awesome 5.9 ground on a steep buttress. The last two pitches aren't as good, but they're worth it to get to the top.

Long sport climbs = long rappels. Shooting video fills the time.





By the time we got down, our feet had taken a beating over the first two days of climbing. More on this later ...



Despite the bolts, the Jungle Wall still involves a bit of objective hazard. The locals built a pavilion for the beer drinking party goers right at the base of the wall, and the roofs provide a convenient record of recent rock fall. These guys apparently didn't get the message and spent 2-3 hours hanging out at the base without helmets cragging on the first pitch of Yankee Clipper. Brilliant.

From El Potrero Chico

A majority of the recent rockfall happened during a rain event a few months ago, but the wall is still unstable and unpredictable. We saw a table-size block come off above Yankee Clipper, explode in the Jungle Bowl and then miss a party on Jungle Mountaineering by about 3-5 feet. Scary. Wear your helmets and move fast - no reason to hang out here any longer then necessary.

All in all, Space Boyz definitely deserves its reputation as a classic sport climb. Pitches 1-5 are moderate slabs with friendly face holds, and pitches 6-8 are steep and airy with excellent climbing and cool positions. The last two pitches are mediocre, but you can link them and get to the top. A great route!

Day 3 - Cragging in the Virgin Canyon

EPC has A LOT of excellent cragging, and the Virgin Canyon could keep you busy for many days. Tucked behind the public pools, it tends to be loud, and you may be watched by some of the locals, but it gets shade early, and the rock is excellent.

Day 4 - Time Wave Zero

From El Potrero Chico

Sitting at home researching EPC, Time Wave Zero will definitely float to the top of your tick list. How can you resist 23 pitches of excellent climbing? During the first couple of days I put out feelers with some of the other folks at La Posada to see if anyone would be interested. I eventually hooked up with a cool Aussie who was flying out to the South Pacific the next day. He had one route left, so we figured to send him out in style!

From El Potrero Chico

Adam and I left La Posada at about 5:30 and started climbing right around 6:15. I led the first pitch, he swung through into the .11a pitch and then linked the 3rd. From there, we linked pitches all the way to the top of the 12th and the bivy ledge. The .11a pitch is pretty cruiser on positive holds, and it took us about 2 hours for the first 12 pitches. We hadn't climbed together before but got into a serious groove. Following two linked pitches and then leading two more, we were getting in 400 ft. at a time and loving every minute.

After the 12th, the route steepens just a bit, but the climbing is still pretty moderate. A couple of pitches up, you get a sweet palm tree belay - I was dreaming of a pina colada.

From El Potrero Chico

We pitched out the first 5.10 section and then linked the next four or so until we got to the 5.10d pitch, which I think was the 20th of the day. Awesome! Steep, juggy and super fun. From the top of that pitch, we were looking up at the .12-, and I gave it a go but got shut down at the crux. After french freeing a couple of moves, I brought Adam up, and he led the last two easy pitches up the ridgeline to the summit.

From El Potrero Chico

We topped out at 12:15 or so about six hours after we started. WooHoo!!

From El Potrero Chico

After checking out the view for a bit and savoring the summit, we started the 20+ raps.

From El Potrero Chico

Some shots from the way down.

From El Potrero Chico

From El Potrero Chico

We touched down about 3:30 or so for a 9:15 round trip. We thought about simul rapping, but that stations are so well set up with four belay bolts at each stop, that it was really fast for the first one down to thread the rope and then pull and go after the second arrives.

I'd say the route checked in at III+, 5.11- A0, 2300'. Most of the climbing is super easy and the cruxes are all well bolted. The rock is excellent. The views are amazing. Serious fun!

Kristin, meanwhile, was having a horrible time with new friends on the Mota Wall.

From El Potrero Chico

We got back to La Posada and started into the tequila. I eventually found myself talking with Magic Ed, who developed the route over a total of 52 weekends. Its not often you get a chance to talk to the FA on a line like that the same day you climb it. I bought him a shot and toasted his work. It is definitely one of the most well crafted routes I've been on. The bolts are all in the right place. The anchors are set up well - it climbs and raps super fast. Beautiful work by Ed and his friends.

Day 5 - Market Day

Tuesdays are market days in Hidalgo, and its definitely worth the visit to pick up food for the week and check out the locals. You can get a bag of avocados for a dollar or two and there's a guy selling fresh squeezed OJ for $1/liter. The food here is much better and way cheaper then the supermarket in town so try to plan out your climbing schedule so you can make it into town on Tuesday to fill up supplies for the week.

Day 6 - More Cragging

After the off day, Kristin and I headed out with a few of the cool folks we had met for some single pitch cragging in the canyon. We climbed at the Mota Wall in the morning and then sought some shade in the Virgin Canyon once it got hot. Highlights included the first pitch of Two Pumped Chump on the Mota Wall (.11-) and Bad Cop No Donut in the Virgin Canyon (.11b). There is so much fun climbing in this place its ridiculous.

From El Potrero Chico

From El Potrero Chico

Day 7 - Snot Girlz (1st 2 pitches) into more cragging

Kristin and I woke up early to check out Snot Girlz and made it out before the crowds. We had planned to climb the full route to the ridge atop the Mota Wall, but we ended up rapping off after two pitches because Kristin was starting to come down with a cold. The first pitch woke me up good with a steep crack system on some tricky holds.

After rapping off, we walked back to the camp and I hooked up with the same crew from the day before for more cragging. We ended up at the Mini Super Wall, which has several cool lines including a steep overhanging pitch on some cool tufa formations (La Presa, 5.11b). There at least 3 or 4 other quality routes on the same wall, mostly in the .10-.10+ range - definitely worthy of a fun day out.

Day 8 - Treasure of the Sierra Madre

After another night of toasting new friends leaving for home, I teamed up with Kelly from California for a morning climb of Treasure of the Sierra Madre, a 7-pitch line on the Mota Wall (.10c). We stumbled out of camp early, hoping to knock out most of the climb before the sun hit the wall. The climbing was stellar with lots of steep jamming on excellent rock to a super cool summit position with commanding views of the valley. Good times with a great partner!

Leading through the crux

From El Potrero Chico

The Last Pitch

From El Potrero Chico

On Top!

From El Potrero Chico

Day 9 - Satori > Moonlight Ascent of Jungle Mountaineering

Since we showed up, Kristin and I had been looking at a cool line on the front side that ascended a different part of El Toro.

From El Potrero Chico

The route takes the steep, scrubbed buttress just behind Kristin and to the right for 7 pitches and 700 feet to the top of the ridge.

From El Potrero Chico

This picture gives a better view of the line scrubbed in the desert cactus, with the first two pitches angling slightly right to left up to a big ledge and then the final 5 pitches headed straight up the buttress to the skyline.

From the top of the second pitch, the steep upper pitches look super cool!

From El Potrero Chico

Looking back down from midway up the 3rd pitch.

From El Potrero Chico

Looking back down the steep buttress from somewhere high on the route.

From El Potrero Chico

We had a great time on the excellent rock and topped out to excellent views and a cool position.

From El Potrero Chico

That night the moon was almost full, and I got talked into a moonlight ascent of Jungle Mountaineering by Adam and Kelly. After a couple of beers, I passed out in the tent, and around 10 pm I hear someone yelling "Portland, identify yourself!" Groggy eyed, I said "here I am - don't leave me!" We hooked up with Andrew and headed out as a foursome for some nighttime bolt clipping.

Slab climbing by moonlight is definitely challenging. We started out with the moon behind us and we could see the handholds, but our shadows obscured our feet. We'd grope around with our toes to find a foot hold and then hop back and forth matching feet looking for something we could mantle on so we could go foot to hand. After a pitch, the angle changed and lighting improved just a bit. We got to the Jungle Bowl and hung out for a shot or two of Capaneros and then rapped off, making it back to the camp site by midnight or so. Great fun!

You can't really see anything, but the audio is kind of entertaining.





Day 10 - Cragging at the Wonder Wall > Evil Shenanigans

After climbing nine out of ten days, we were feeling pretty spent but were determined to enjoy our last day and get in a few more pitches. We went to the Wonder Wall with April and Andrew for some more cragging. The routes are just behind the community pool and so get a lot of traffic from interested locals, but the climbing is excellent, steep and aesthetic.

After several pitches, Andrew and I decided to climb Evil Shenanigans, a 5.1b three pitch line up one of the steep towers behind the pools. We had heard the climbing was excellent, and there we were so we decided to give it a go.

The first pitch ascends an easy 5.8 jug haul to a big ledge, where you set up for the crux pitch. Off the ledge, super balancy moves on crimps and crappy, smearing feet help you clear a mid-11 bulge to another set of anchors and a small ledge. The last pitch is definitely the highlight, although its rated easier at 5.10d.

From El Potrero Chico

The picture above doesn't capture the beauty of this pitch, but it's unfortunately all I got. A sweet, difficult finger crack splits the clean upper buttress on thin holds and bomber rock for a full 100 feet. I got the lead and dropped into a rare peaceful head space where everything seemed to slow down and flow - a great way to end the trip!

From El Potrero Chico

Now several weeks later, I'm finally finishing up this blog post and thinking back on the experience with some perspective. For a lot of reasons, I needed this trip - the relaxation and escape - new friends - cheap booze - friendly bolts and warm sun. Potrero definitely delivered, and I would highly recommend this place to anyone looking for a relaxing climbing spot with long sport routes and a cheap lifestyle. For those looking to head down, here are my "10 essentials" for a Potrero trip.

1. Food. Arrange your climbing schedule so you can hit the market on Tuesday morning. Buy as many avocados as you can carry, at least a liter of fresh squeezed OJ, a bunch of eggs, and fresh veggies. Eat like kings, make a huge dish of community guac very night and feed your soul.

2. Water. The water at EPC is good to go coming straight from the ground. Don't bother with the bottled stuff or a filter. Avoid the water in Hidalgo.

3. Accommodations. If you're going to camp, no advance reservations needed. We loved La Posada! $5/night per person for dependable hot water, a clean bathroom, a clean kitchen, a good restaurant and cool people to hang with. Use the lockers for our valuables as we had an IPhone stolen fromn the tent. Oh yeah, and the pool is awesome!

From El Potrero Chico

4. Transportation. We called La Posada ahead of time and they arranged for a taxi from the Monterrey airport directly to their door for $45. It's not the cheapest option, but the driver was waiting for us with our name on a sign, and it only took an hour from baggage claim to camp site. On the way back, we hooked up with Magic Ed, who runs trips to the airport for around $35, which goes to the local bolting fund. Definitely try to set up a return trip with him if possible.

5. Money. The US$$ rules down in Mexico. Bring cash - mostly $20s. Keep it on you or in the lockers. Apart from the plane tickets, you'll spend about $80 to and from the airport, $5/day to camp, $5-10/day on food (unless you're eating in the restaurant) and $2-10/day on booze.

6. Gear. 25 draws and a 70m rope. You can get by with a 60m, but there were many many times that we would have been up against the knots on the raps without a 70m. You'll be much happier with a longer line. On the advice of some friends, we brought a small rack for rumored run outs in between some bolts, but I left it all in the bag after the first day. There was only one time I wished I had a piece (1st pitch of Snot Girlz), and I was glad in the end that I didn't take the time to fiddle one in. If you're into adventure, bring a good rack and tackle some of the awesome looking ridge climbs. A couple of guys we met knocked out Monster Truck (50 pitches, 5.10x), and there's also the Scariest Ride in the Park - both worthy objectives.

7. Ethics. If bolts annoy you, don't go. Everything down here is bolted - slabs, finger cracks, hand cracks, fist cracks, tufas, offwidths. Most of the anchors have more than two bolts. Most of the bolts are closely spaces. It may not be how you'd develop the place, but then again you didn't develop it now did you?

8. Booze. Have fun! Watch out for Montezuma's Revenge high on a route. The bar at La Posada sells pretty cheap beer and tequila. The small market next door sells it even cheaper. You can't go wrong with an El Sol and a big bucket of guac after a day of sport climbing in the Mexican sun.

9. Partners. The scene here is really laid back with people from all over North America. No partner? No problem. You'll find someone cool to climb with - most likely a bunch of cool people.

10. Feet! Finally, don't forget to take care of your feet. You can climb almost an unlimited number of pitches given the right weather, and your feet are likely to be the weak link. I climbed more than 90 pitches over 9 separate climbing days while I was there, and by the end I could barely walk. The pain started in my toes, then disappeared for a good part of the trip, and then manifested itself in the balls of my feet. I climbed in comfy trad shoes on anything up to .10+ and after the first day I wore a pair of thin socks. I clipped a pair of sport shoes to my harness on Time Wave and Space Boyz and was glad I had them, but they probably weren't necessary. Do all the little things to take care of your feet, and you'll enjoy all the mileage that much more.

If you have questions, drop me a line. Go check this place out!

From El Potrero Chico

From El Potrero Chico

From El Potrero Chico